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Points to consider when you are
setting up your aquarium.
Choosing the right location
Choosing the right location for your aquarium is important. Basic points to
remember are:
Electrical supply - you should position your tank near to a mains power socket
to accommodate any electrical hardware.
Keep your tank away from strong sunlight as this encourages algal growth, which can
spoil the appearance of your aquarium.
The weight - a tank of water is heavy. If you are using a tank without a
specially manufactured stand, make sure the surface you choose is strong and
flat. It is also advisable to put a piece of expanded polystyrene (e.g. ceiling
tiles) beneath the tank to even out any slight irregularities in the surface.
Look for a spot that would benefit from the attraction - don't hide your
creation! Choose a place where it will be seen - even from both sides, using it
as a room divider - remembering the weight involved.
The equipment you will need
We recommend that you purchase a good quality glass aquarium with hood. The hood
should have a 'condensation tray' below the light to prevent condensation
reaching the lighting unit. The basic equipment you will need (after the tank)
comprises a filter, an airpump and, if you want to keep tropical or marine fish,
a heater thermostat.
The filter is needed to clean the water. Waste solids, such as excreta and
uneaten food, must be filtered from the water or they will break down and
pollute the aquarium. There are three basic kinds of filtration:
1.
Internal filtration
As the name suggests these filters fit inside the aquarium. Water is drawn in
through the bottom of the filter and through filter media - usually sponge - by
an electric pump. It is then pumped back into the water via the outlet or an
attached spray bar. Internal filters are ideal for all sizes of tanks.
2. Undergravel filtration
Here the gravel itself is the filter medium. A special undergravel filtration
plate is placed on the bottom of the tank with an upright pipe fixed to one
corner. The filtration plate is then covered with about 3 inches (8 cm) of
gravel. A submersible electric pump, known as a powerhead, pumps water up the
tube drawing it through the gravel. The gravel filters the water as it passes
through. This system can also be operated by pumping air from an airpump into
the uplift tube.
3. External filtration
External filters stand outside the tank. The water is drawn from the aquarium
and filtered through one or more filtration medias before being pumped back into
the aquarium.
An airpump puts additional oxygen into the water. Fish need to breathe and the
water therefore needs to be oxygen - rich - in rivers and lakes this happens
naturally. In your aquarium you can help improve the ongoing supply of oxygen.
When air is pumped into the tank it puts oxygen into the water. More
importantly, the rising bubbles create movement, which circulates the oxygen -
rich water at the surface around to the rest of the tank, also increasing the
oxygen in the water. This is much more effective and attractive if an airstone
is used.
A heater thermostat is used to warm the water. Tropical and marine fish need to
be kept in water at about 25°C - 28°C (77°F - 82°F). Choose a heater thermostat
suitable for the size of your tank. Your aquatic retailer will advise you on the
size you require. You will also need a thermometer to check the water
temperature.
Preparing the water
Put your gravel and your rocks into your aquarium before adding the water. Rinse
all gravel before use in clean water. This is most important, as dirty gravel
will result in cloudy water that is difficult to clear. Boil any rocks or
bogwood, before use. If the items are too big to boil then 'scald', taking great
care not to splash yourself or any others nearby. It takes about 2 weeks from
filling the tank to the water being in the right condition to be able to put
fish safely into the aquarium.
Removing the chlorine: whilst ordinary tap water can be used it must first be
treated before fish can be added. The first step in this process is to
neutralise the chlorine in the water by adding a neutraliser called a
"Dechlorinator".
Maturing the water: Just as we need many types of bacteria to help us stay
healthy, fish also need an environment which contains the right amounts of
certain bacteria which help to break down waste. This increase in useful
bacteria is called 'maturing'. This maturing process can be speeded up by
leaving the heater and airpump running and adding two or three crumpled flakes
of fish food (e.g. AQUARIAN ® Flaked Fish Food) each day to 'feed' the bacteria
that help the maturing process. Once this has been done it should be safe to
introduce the fish after 14 days. Partial water changes: every 2 to 3
weeks we recommend that you carry out a partial water change. This means
siphoning 20% to 30% of the water out of the tank (you don't need to remove the
fish) and replacing it with new water. The new water can be tap water, but
treated with a product such as a Dechlorinator prior to adding it to the tank.
If you have tropical fish, to avoid distressing them, you should warm the new
water to about 25°C (77°F), and pour it carefully into the tank.
Testing the water
There are two main potential problems, which can occur in aquarium water - a
build up of nitrite, and imbalance in the level of acidity. If left unattended
both can stress the fish and therefore lower their resistance to disease. Both
are easily monitored and controlled with water test or treatment kits, we can
advise on this matter alternatively contact your local retailer.
Introducing fish
to your tank
Fish need living space so do not overstock your tank. As a general rule allow 24
square inches of surface water area for each one inch of coldwater fish, and 10
square inches for each inch of tropical fish (head to tail, but not including
the tail fin). Ideally, you should allow 2 gallons of water per goldfish, and
more once the fish grows more than a few inches long.
Check that your fish have been properly quarantined before sale. Disease often
takes a few weeks to show and a fish not quarantined can easily introduce
diseases, which may infect all your fish. It is also better to add your fish
gradually starting off with only two or three fish of one species, building up
over the months as your tank matures.
Buy your fish locally if possible - long journeys and a fall in water
temperature (for tropical fish) can easily stress your fish. Before you let the
fish free, float the opened plastic bag on the surface of the tank for about 20
minutes to equalise the water temperature and reduce the stress on the fish.
Fish, which are just introduced into a new tank, may be nervous and hide away.
Leave them for a few hours to get used to their new surroundings. After that
time you can give them a few fish flakes.
Healthy fish
The secret of success in keeping ornamental fish is
water quality. Fish live in permanent
contact with their aqueous environment and are
totally dependent upon it.
Always remember that fish live in their own toilet! They excrete into the water,
copiously and continuously. It is not the solids (faeces) that present a
problem, but the fish's equivalent of our urine. They excrete
ammonia, which is soluble and invisible,
but deadly poisonous.
If the aquarium (or pond) is too crowded, or
neglected, the ammonia builds-up and self - poisons the fish. It irritates the
gills and extra mucus forms which reduces the oxygen uptake. The fish then gasp
at the surface for air. Next the ammonia will burn the skin and the fish start
to scratch (flashing). The fins are attacked next, giving fin rot. At only a few
parts per million the ammonia will actually kill the fish.
Owners see these symptoms and buy an air pump
thinking that the oxygen level is low (it isn't), then add anti-parasite
chemicals (adding to the fish's irritation) finally using antibiotics (which
destroy valuable nitrifying bacteria making the situation worse). All this is
unnecessary.
Regular partial water changes are essential. If you use tap water, add a little
dechlorinator, or at least stand the water for a few hours to let the chlorine
evaporate away.
Fish diseases
Three major groups of 'diseases' affect ornamental fish - stress, parasites, and
bacteria/viruses.
Stress is listed first because this is by far the most common cause of apparent
disease symptoms. Unless the water quality is perfect the fish will be stressed,
with symptoms described above.
Parasites can be recognised by eye, or by taking a swab and a using low power
microscope. All the popular anti-parasite agents are effective - methylene blue,
malachite green, acriflavin, chelated copper, etc. Treatment should be in
separate aquaria so the fish can be removed from the chemical - which is far
more effective than trying to remove chemicals from the community or living tank
- or dosing a central filter system. Note that all fish carry some parasites,
and that when they become overwhelming that treatment is needed, so dosing the
central system is not essential or effective.
Bacterial problems (ulcers) and internal parasites (poor growth) are best
treated by a vet knowledgeable in fish diseases. Viral disease cannot be
treated. Isolate the sick fish and treat with salt to aid osmoregulation - up to
1.0% = 10 gram/litre or 1.6 ounces/gallon water, when natural immunity may
develop.
However, most diseases and parasites do not infest or infect fish that are kept
in good quality water - never overcrowd the aquarium and part change the water
at least weekly, more often if possible. Top quality is also maintained between
partial changes by filtering the water continuously. There are many systems
available and all are effective if run continuously.
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